Lahaul Valley: Trilokinath-Udaipur

Posted: September 14, 2012 by randommuzings in India
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We had initially planned to trek someplace else and even the weather was cloudy but my friend had fallen down after coming back from the Shasur Gompa trek. I am never keen on trekking alone, thus I took a bus to Trilokinath that is 56 km away from Keylong. The bus took 3 hours to get there; car perhaps would take 2 hours.

The bus was overcrowded and on a seat for 3, four of us were seated. I was sitting with a family going to Trilokinath for seeing a fair there and then staying at Udaipur. I was surprised to learn that the schools there close for 2 months during May-June but remain open throughout winters. “Or kids are used to studying through the snow. In May when the road opens we can travel somewhere when the school is closed.” Even in Delhi we had a 15 days winter break!

But sometimes there is no school due to lack of teachers. Most boys there aspire to join police or army and girls train to become nurses or join the hospitality industry. Very few become teachers and hence there is a dearth of teachers and among the ones joining from outside the region, there is a lot of attrition.

Similar for doctors! The government has set up a free hospital offering Ayurvedic and Tibetian treatment but even that is mostly short-staffed.

Enroute we pass the Baralacha La Pass located at the confluence of the two rivers, Chandra and Bhaga, and post Baralacha it is Chandrabhaga or Chenab that accompanies us to Trilokinath and Udaipur.

Triloknath Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva but is considered holy by Buddhists as well. There is surprising display of Hindu- Buddhist solidarity here and there was a monk and not a priest offering services to Shiva. There are two pillars located at the entrance of the main temple and it is believed that whoever can squeeze through the gap between the pillar and the wall has not committed too many sins. I could manage it easily, so thank God!!:)

From Trilokinath I walked down to Udaipur , about 5 km away. There is a 10th century temple carved out of wood here and the deity is made of silver. The Hindus worship her as Kali, while the Tibetans worship her as Brajabarahi or Markula.

Thereby I headed back to Keylong by bus although people there were insisting I stay for the fair at Trilokinath but from my past experience I know better than to rely on public transport in Himanchal in the evening. Also as a spiritual experience, the previous day experience to Shasur Gompa had more impact on me than this perhaps because the tranquility of the gompa after the arduous climb left a sense of accomplishment, which this place thronged with people, did not have.


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